All about Sunscreen!!!

Last month a new federal regulation about sunscreen came out. The new laws primarily influence sunscreen labeling:

• anything less than SPF 15 that did not pass the new test that was developed must have a big warning label on it saying that it does not protect against sun burn, skin damage, skin cancer, etc. 
• SPF labels above SPF 50 are banned (basically because above SPF 50 doesn't make much of a difference)
• terms like "sunblock" and "water-proof" are banned (because nothing can totally protect you from sun damage). FYI - Sunscreens labeled "water resistant" are required to maintain their SPF level after 40 minutes of water immersion. "Very water resistant" products maintain their SPF level for 80 minutes. I didn't know this before and thought that the "very" was just a name!
• in order to be labeled "broad spectrum," products must protect against both UVA and UVB rays

UVA and UVB rays differ in their length. UVA rays, which are longer and penetrate deeper into the skin, are the cancer-causing and DNA/collagen-damaging rays. UVA rays cause wrinkles by damaging the dermis layer - most importantly, the fibroblasts that produce the collagen and elastin, which is the elastic tissue that gives skin its elasticity. When you pull it or push it, your skin should bounce right back.  Damages to the elastin fibers causes sagging, winkles and aging. Damage done is permanent; the fibroblasts do not regenerate, and thus will not be replacing the collagen/elastin. In contrast, UVB rays are the burning rays that cause sun burn and alter skin color. Melanin is produced by cells located in the basal layer of the epidermis (sitting above the dermis).  Genetics determine the amount of melanin activated - once skin is exposed to UV rays, melanin is produced and is pushed to the top layer of your skin to help absorb and block UV rays. Fair skinned people produces pheomelanin (red to yellow color cells, which is why fair people turn PINK or become tanned), whereas dark-colored skin produces eumelanin, which is dark brown/black pigment.  Another common misconception is that darker skin tones do not need sun screen.  Well - you will not turn that much darker because increased amounts of eumelanin is not readily visible, but it doesn't mean that the UVA rays did not damage your DNA & collagen & elastin!!!

In esthetics, most clients come in to treat acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging.  Let me tell you...the sun exacerbates all three of the above. The sun can cause redness & inflammation (erythma)  to acneic skin, and furthermore, your skin will pump melanin to protect itself as it is more vulnerable when there is a breakout, and that will leave you with a acne scar. If you are not concerned about acne, hyperpigmentation, or youthful appearances, it's still a good idea to wear sun screen because it is good for your health!!  You would not smoke, therefore...you should wear sun screen! 

SPF refers to the Sun Protection Factor and how much longer you can stay under the sun compared to with no sun protection. An SPF 15 sunscreen protects against about 93% of UVB rays, while an SPF 30 blocks about 96.9% of UVB rays. Notice that doubling the SPF number does not double the protection. Dermatologists generally recommend SPF 30 with broad spectrum protection.

The label "SPF" only refers to protection against UVB rays. In the U.S., labels only specify SPF. In Asia, sunscreen labels also contain PA measures (PA+++ being the best protecting against UVA rays and PA+ being less protection). It'd be great if we could get this labeling system going in the U.S., in addition to the new law requiring all sunscreen to meet broad spectrum protection!

How should you go about selecting sunscreens? There are two types of active sunscreen ingredients: those that provide physical protection and chemical protection. The main difference between the two is that physical sunscreens reflect UV rays, while chemical protection chemically absorbs UV rays. Physical sunscreens work immediately upon application, whereas chemical protection needs 15 to 30 minutes to become effective (depending on the quality). 

A very important thing to do is to check the sunscreen you are currently using -- check this chart from this EPA article to see if your product has both physical and chemical protection. It's good to have at least one of each! If your current sunscreen meets the requirements, GREAT! If not, it may be time to look into investing in a great sunscreen.  

The above table is from EPA's article about sun and skin. Check it out: http://www.epa.gov/sunwise/doc/sunscreen.pdf

During your annual check up with your physician, ask about any abnormal growths and dark spots that you've noticed and ask your doctor if you should get it checked out by the dermatologists. I've encountered a client who was in her late 20s that had squamous cell carcinoma removed on their nose!

After initial application in the morning, you can use powder sunscreens or makeup with SPF during the day for continuous protection against sun damage. Keep in mind, though, that many of these contain light-reflective metallic SPF (like Zinc and Titanium dioxide). These metallic ingredients reflect light and might cause the skin to appear somewhat whitish or super-shiny, which may also alter your skin color in flash photography. This is totally fine for everyday, but I'd avoid products with SPF for special occasions for this reason. The metals also make sunscreen harder to spread across your face - think of the white pasty look and the stickiness you experience! The ancient Greeks used to bathe in olive oil and then dust their bodies with fine sand in order to protect themselves from the sun. That sounds uncomfortable! Fortunately, many sunscreens on the market today have been refined and grinds the metals micro-fine and manufactured with excellent spreadability and 0 stickiness! 

Even if you don't see the sun (rainy day, cold winter day), or if you're staying at home on your day off, you still need to wear sunscreen. Light from ambient or fluorescent lighting, and light through a window all still contain harmful rays. 

What I use myself is PCA's Weightless Protection SPF 45 for my oily skin type. It's incredibly light and smooth because there's Vitamin E in it, which is a great emollient and antioxidant. It also contains caffeine, which is also an antioxidant but additionally kills damaged skin cells that may turn into skin cancer. Another one of my favorite sunscreens is Perfecting Protection SPF 30 from PCA skin. It contains Licorice Root Extract that not only reduces hyperpigmentation but also suppresses the pigment from forming after being exposed to the sun.

Even with great sun screen, if you are out in the sun for long hours (especially between 10-4:00pm), the effects of sun damage can still be very significant. My husband looked great (and younger) before he began playing golf....He aged significantly since he started. He gets a little sad when I mention this, but alas, it is true. People would not have guessed his age, but ever since his golf habits started, he actually looks his age - when I touch his face, I immediately notice the loss in elastin and the formulation of fine lines where it previously did not exist. It's already a little late, but I've been bugging him to use more serums and stuff. The moral of the story is...by the time you notice the wrinkles, it's already LATE. If you are worried about premature aging/photo damage, wearing sun screen is almost half the battle! 

For the gentlemen reading this, wearing sunscreen does not male you less manly, but enhances your attractiveness in every way. If you are 24 and look 40, it really isn't more manly...!  

Don't forget about your lips (don't want to lose collagen there!), arms, tops of your feet, ears and neck! A good place to look for your sunscreen and lip balm is Whole Foods and Trader Joe's.

To read more about the new law, check out these links:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/capital-weather-gang/post/new-sunscreen-regulations-seek-to-block-out-misconceptions/2011/06/17/AGKoD7YH_blog.html

http://www.fdalawblog.com/2011/06/articles/legislation/sunscreen-in-the-spotlight-fda-illuminates-new-sunscreen-regulations/